Étiqueté : vêtements

Appel à contribution : « The Material Culture of Magnificence in Early Modern Cities », San Juan, The Renaissance Society of America, 9-11 mars 2023, date limite le 25 juin 2022

This session proposes to study the material culture of magnificence in early modern cities as a specific topic. Magnificentia, by its definition as a virtue, is very much concerned with the individual. By making appropriate expenditures to create grand works, the individual manifests his or her virtuousness, thus making it visible to a broader community. This manifestation occurs on multiple scales; in clothing, coachwork, tombs, city palaces, churches, as well as the design of urban space....

Appel à contribution : « Cross-Dressing the Early Modern. Exploring Transformations through Dress », en ligne, 23 septembre 2022, date limite le 15 juin 2022

Cross-dressing in the early modern period is a phenomenon that happened for various reasons in different contexts. Whether it was done to conceal one’s sex in order to protect the wearer or to resume a different identity, dress served as a powerful tool that could be used to disguise and blur gender expectations. From cross-dressing in literature, theatre and stage to cross-dressing in images and art, there are ample historical accounts of various social classes that reveal these transformations. From male...

Parution : Timothy McCall, « Brilliant Bodies. Fashioning Courtly Men in Early Renaissance Italy », Pennsylvanie, Penn State University Press, 2022

Italian court culture of the fifteenth century was a golden age, gleaming with dazzling princes, splendid surfaces, and luminous images that separated the lords from the (literally) lackluster masses. In Brilliant Bodies, Timothy McCall describes and interprets the Renaissance glitterati — gorgeously dressed and adorned men — to reveal how charismatic bodies, in the palazzo and the piazza, seduced audiences and materialized power. Fifteenth-century Italian courts put men on display. Here, men were peacocks, attracting...

Parution : Matthew J. Ward, « The Livery Collar in Late Medieval England and Wales. Politics, Identity and Affinity », Woodbridge, Boydell & Brewer, 2021

The livery collar had a pervasive presence in late-medieval England. Worn about the neck to denote service to a lord, references to the collar abound in government records, contemporary chronicles and correspondence, and many depictions of the collar can be found in illuminated manuscripts and on church monuments. From the fifteenth century the collar was regarded as a powerful symbol of royal power, the artefact associating the recipient with the king; it also played a...

Colloque : “Materials of Early Modern Fashion”, en ligne, 7-8 octobre 2021

Materials of Early Modern Fashion is a conference exploring the variety of different materials used in the construction of clothes and accessories in the 16th and 17th centuries.   PROGRAMME DAY ONE: Thursday 7 October 2021   10.00 – 11.20: Materials and Global Trade Ana Howie – Global Materials, Global Identities: Cosmopolitan Dressing in van Dyck’s Balbi Children Hugh Chevis – Why Early Modern English Clothiers started using Spanish Merino Wool Saoirse Dervla Laaraichi –...

Parution : Richard Thompson Ford, « Dress Codes. How the Laws of Fashion Made History », New York, Simon & Schuster, 2021

Dress codes are as old as clothing itself. For centuries, clothing has been a wearable status symbol; fashion, a weapon in struggles for social change; and dress codes, a way to maintain political control. Merchants who dressed like princes and butchers’ wives wearing gem-encrusted crowns were public enemies in medieval societies structured by social hierarchy and defined by spectacle. In Tudor England, silk, velvet, and fur were reserved for the nobility and ballooning pants called...

Séminaire : Questes, « Déguisements, travestissements, transformations », en ligne, 15 janvier, 19 février et 19 mars 2021

Le séminaire de Questes, groupe de jeunes médiévistes, s’attache pour trois séances à étudier l’articulation du déguisement, du travestissement et de la transformation dans le temps long de la civilisation médiévale. La prolifique bibliographie qui est le fruit de la rencontre entre les études de genre et le Moyen Âge nous invite à problématiser le rapport entre ces termes : loin de les envisager comme synonymes, nous souhaitons penser la relation entre extérieur et intérieur de l’individu...

Appel à communication : « Dressing a Picture : Reimagining the Court Portrait, 1500–1800 », Université de Cambridge, date limite le 4 janvier 2021

Summary As Ulinka Rublack asserts in Dressing Up, her seminal book on dress in early modern Europe, society was extremely dress-literate and nowhere more so than in the courtly environments that generated and fuelled fashion. Within these sartorially-minded elite communities, one was constantly on display. Capturing dressed sitters in paint for prosperity, portraiture was a unique vehicle for the inherent dialectic in clothing between subject and observer, and presentation and perception. As such, this conference will...

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